Tampilkan postingan dengan label Pilsen. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label Pilsen. Tampilkan semua postingan

Kamis, 06 November 2014

Wet and dry in the States

Here's another result of my traawl for the word "pilsener" in the newspaper archive.

It's an article about the creeping prohibition in the US in the years leading up to WW I. I've been as guilty as everyone alse of thing that prohibition was introduced at a stroke in 1919. In reality, it had been happening county by country for some time.

Temperance campaigners in Britain took note and that's why they were so keen on getting "local option" legislation introduced. That would allow district to vote to close all alcohol outlets. After WW I, such legislation was introduced in Scotland and a few areas did become "dry". But in the 1920's the temperance campaign was running out of steam and they were unable to persuade voters to ban alcohol in most of the country.

"WAGES AND THE COST OF LIVING IN AMERICA.
A COMPARISON.
"WET" AND "DRY" IN THE STATES.

[By Special Western Gazette Correspondent.]
As in England, the liquor traffic question is very much to the front at this time the United States. The promoters of the trade and the townships and counties which permit the sale of drink are known "wet", and the prohibitionist party and districts "dry." A wave of temperance and "dryness" appears be spreading over the land. The raising of the cost of licenses from 350 dollars to 1,000 dollars of course caused the weeding out of many the small saloons, but the pace was not fast enough for the prohibitionists, and now the people are generally voting "dry." Racial feeling has, no doubt, something to do with the vigorous prosecution of the campaign against the saloons in the .Southern States, the ostensible object being remove one of the chief causes of crime among the coloured population. In the North the moralists receive great support from the moderate drinkers, who see in the war against the liquor interests a just retribution for the unjustifiable uses they have made of their vast monopolies. In this State of Ohio 66 out 88 counties have gone "dry," and in the adjoining State of Indiana 78 out of 92.


A WAY OUT.

New York City is declared "dry" on Sundays, a surprising fact when one sees the amount of business and pleasure going on there during that day. But it doesn't need even bold imitator of the "bona-fide traveller" in England get "wet" in New York. In justice to the hotels of that city, it is only fair to say that the drinking bars are not prominent features of the establishments. Still, you can find the buffets when needed. On the Sunday I was there I saw two men who had not registered at the hotel call for glasses of Pilsener. The smiling waiter hinted that the order must include food, and brought a couple of sandwiches with the beer. The sandwiches remained untasted, and would probably do duty again and again for the same purpose, much as that noted contract beast, "Old Jerusalem," was tendered and rejected at the British camps in South Africa during the Boer War."
Western Gazette - Friday 09 July 1909, page 5.

Of course, even when total prohibition came in, getting a drink wasn't much of a problem

I've seen something similar to the untouched sandwiches. I was drinking in a bar in Krakow in the meid 1980's. You had to have food to get an alcoholic drink. There were several blokes with a boiled egg an two 100 ml glasses of vodka.

Senin, 03 November 2014

A growing demand for Lager Beer in Hull

I found this fascinating article with one of my regular newspaper archve sweeps with  a very general search term. In this case, "Pilsener".

I meant to search the 19th-century but, because I failed to change the date filter, I searched 1900 to 1909 instead. I'm glad I did now. Because it's a rare insight into Lager in the UK on the eve of WW I.

The article is about the opening of a specialist Lager bottling store in Hull.

"LAGER BEER IN HULL
A GROWING DEMAND.

The growing taste for lager beer has been responsible for innovation at Hull, namely, the establishment of the Continental Beer Agency, with commodious, well-equipped premises at 35 and 36, Pryme-street, Hull. The prospects for the consumers of products of the foreign breweries is a bright one, for this company is in a position to place lager beers, whether from Munich, Christiania. Copenhagen, Gothenburg, and Bremen, on the English market in the condition as when they were bottled in those breweries. This is assured bottling from the huge butts at the bottling stores in Pryme-street, and it is now possible to order a bottle of lager that has not travelled a long journey. Major Gleadow is the chairman of the oompany, with Major Smithson, Mr P. Robson, Mr J. H. Tate, and Mr F. Moor as directors, the last two mentioned being the managing directors. The retailers in Hull and district who have visited the establishment expressed satisfaction at the demonstration given them, and on Thursday a number of visitors who were invited formed similar good opinions. Amongst many others accepting the invitation the directors were Mr John Tate, Mr J. Westrope, Mr Stanley Mr W. Dyson, Mr J. Fanthorpe, Mr R. N. Ross, and Mr W. Walker, of St. Pauli Breweries, Bremen.

The ground floor of the premises covers an area of 900 square yards. well equipped office occupies portion of the frontage to the street, and on passing through the commodious empties warehouse is reached. On this floor is the boilerhouse, and at the end the refrigerating plant and machinery, which is driven by electricity, is housed. A representative was next invited to step into the chilling chambers, where the lager, in large casks, containing 104 gallons each, is reduced to the same temperature when it left the breweries. A glance the thermometers showed that the temperature stood at freezing point, which was altogether too chilly to be comfortable to a man in a summer suit, although it makes the beer delicious. The storage provided is for about 100 butts. After the lager has been kept in the cold store for a specific period, extractors are placed in the casks, and the liquid is driven by air pressure through suitable channels, outside the insulated walls to the bottling machines. In the bottling department the latest and best plant has been installed, of type, it is said, that no other store in this country possesses. The directors have visited breweries and stores in England and abroad, and the experience gained has enabled them to bring into use machinery and plant to ensure the lager being skilfully and carefully handled, and placed on the English market in perfect condition. The bottle-washing machinery ensures scrupulous cleanliness, for in successive machines the bottles are washed, scoured, and brushed till they glisten, and are as clear as crystal. The light yellow and clear liquid is then run into the bottles, and the patent pull-over fasteners are fixed. This does not however, complete the processes. The lager securely sealed in bottles is next placed in pasteurising crates, and for two hours the bottles of lager remain in the pasteurising plant. It is not necessary to go into the benefits arising from this last process, except to say that the lager will now keep in perfect condition any length of time. Having been labelled, the bottles of lager are now ready to be despatched in cases to their destinations. family trade price list has been prepared, follows: Allsopp's Burton Lager, 2s 3d per dozen half-pints; Tennent's Glasgow Lager, 2s 3d do.; St. Pauli (Bremen Brewery) Light, 3s per dozen foreign size, 2s 6d per dozen half-pints; St. Pauli, Munich, 3s 3d per dozen foreign size, 2s 9d per dozen half-pints ; Christiania Breweries, Pilsener 2s 3d, Lager 2s 3d, Bock 2s 6d per dozen foreign size; Tuborg Lager, Copenhagen, 2s 6d do-; J. W. Lyckholm and Co., Goteborg, 2s 6d do.; Urquell Brewery, Pilsen (Bohemia), 3s 3d do.

Messrs Habron and Robson were the architects, and Messrs T. Goates and Son carried out the extensieve alterations that were necessary in adapting the building. The insulation and joinery work were executed Mr G. L. Scott. The machinery was erected by Mr .John Barker, the engineer to the Hull Brewery Co.
Hull Daily Mail - Friday 09 July 1909, page 3.
Reading between the lines, this tells us a fair bit about the Lager trade of the time. The way they make a big deal of bottling it in Hull, implies that previously Lager had been bottled at source and shipped to Britain. 104 gallons is not a British beer barrel size. The closest, a tun, is 108 gallons. In litres, 104 gallons is 472.79, so a pretty odd measure, too.

Were they really moving the beer out of the casks by air pressure, or was it CO2? Er, not sure I'd be so enthusiastic about pasteurisation. Especially for two hours. Yes, the beer would last forever, but it probably tasted like shit.

The "pull-over fasteners" mentioned are probably flip-top ceramic stoppers. It's not a type of stopper that was ever very popular in Britain. Whereas it was standard in Germany.

We learn about what Lagers were available in Britain at the time. What strikes me in particular is that there are none from Munich or Vienna, the sources of the first Lagers in Britian in the 1860's. All come from Scandinavia except Pilsner Urquell and St. Pauli.

The types of beer on offer also tell a story. Only one is identified as a dark Munich-style Lager and one as a Bock. My guess is that all the others were pale. That's a big turnaround from the early days of Lager in Britain, when only Wiener and Münchner were imported.

The two British breweries both put considerable investment into building Lager brewhouses, with differing. Allsopp never sold as much Lager as they had hoped and a few years later the brewhouse was shipped up to Alloa. Whereas Tennent's is still going strong.

Finally, a word on pricing. Here are some British bottled beers from the same year:

British bottled beers in 1909
Brewery Place year beer price per dozen size
Godsell & Sons Stroud 1909 Pale Ale 3s 6d pint
Godsell & Sons Stroud 1909 Imperial 2s 6d pint
Godsell & Sons Stroud 1909 Nourishing Stout 3s 3d pint
Heavitree Brewery Exeter 1909 East India Pale Ale 3s 3d pint
Heavitree Brewery Exeter 1909 East India Pale Ale 1s 9d half pint
Heavitree Brewery Exeter 1909 AKK Light Bitter Ale 2s 6d pint
Heavitree Brewery Exeter 1909 AKK Light Bitter Ale 1s 6d half pint
Heavitree Brewery Exeter 1909 Oatmeal Stout 2s 6d pint
Heavitree Brewery Exeter 1909 Oatmeal Stout 1s 6d half pint
Source:
Exeter and Plymouth Gazette - Monday 05 July 1909, page 2

They demonstart how relatively expensive Lager was. The Pilseners would only have been about the same strength as AKK. A half pint of Urquell would presumably have been 2s 9d - almost double the price of AKK. Even British-brewed Lager was 2s 3d a dozen half pints.

Like I said, a dead handy little article.

Sabtu, 01 November 2014

German Pilsner in 2014

For the second part of my modern German beer style series, we'll be looking at Germany favourite: Pilsner.

Though its popularity is definitely on the slide, down from almost 70% of sales in 1996 to 55% in 2010*. Though there's currently no obvious replacement nor even a vague challenger. No other style had a market share of more than 10% in 2010**.

It's often assumed that after Pilsner was first brewed in 1842 that it spread like wildfire across Europe. It didn't. Its progress was much slower and it's only really in the 1880's that it starts to be brewed in any quantities outside Austria. Even then it remained an expensive speciality, mostly drunk by the middle classes. As you can see, there are considerable parallels with Burton Pale Ale.

Pilsner's progress wasn't helped by the fact that the Munich breweries and Dreher from Vienna got in first. Münchner and Viener were the first Lagers to be brewed in most countries. The earliest analyses I have of a German Pilsner is from 1878. Intrguingly, they're all from the Saxon town of Chemnitz and are described as "Bömischer Art" or "Bohemian style".

Only one analysis is from the south, from Munich's Löwenbräu. Which makes sense. They had their own Lager tradition in Bavaria and were more reluctant than brewers from the north in adopting foreign styles. Munich brewers in particular were afraid of debasing their dark Lager brand if they brewed pale beers. Eventually they were unable to resist public demand and in the 1890's all the big Munich breweries introduced one.

Anyway, here's the table:

German Pilsener 1878 - 1893
Year Brewer Town Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation Lactic acid %
1900 unknown unknown Pilsener Draught 1043.6 1012.3 10.91 4.06 70.94%
1878 Feldschlösschen Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1044.3 1007.1 11.07 4.85 83.97%
1878 Böttger's Brauerei Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1044.5 1006.2 11.11 5.00 86.07%
1878 Societäts-Brauerei Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1044.5 1009.3 11.11 4.58 79.10%
1900 unknown unknown Pilsener Bottle 1047.4 1013.9 11.80 4.34 69.66%
1878 Bergschlösschen Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1048.5 1012.8 12.07 4.63 73.61%
1878 Schloss Chemnitz Chemnitz Bömischer Art 1050.1 1013.1 12.45 4.80 73.85%
1884 Bremer Aktien-Brauerei Bremen Pilsener 1050.3 1009.1 12.50 5.38 81.91% 0.145
1884 Union-Brauerei Hannover nach Pilsener Art 1050.7 1013.1 12.59 4.89 74.16% 0.136
1891 National-Aktien-Brauerei Braunschweig Pilsener 1050.7 1015.2 12.59 4.60 70.02%
1891 Aktien-Brauerei Streitberg Streitberg Pilsener 1051.3 1009.9 12.73 5.40 80.70%
1893 Brauerei Hammonia Hamburg Pilsener 1052.8 1020.3 13.09 4.20 61.55%
1884 Städtisches Brauerei Hannover nach Pilsener Art 1055.2 1014 13.65 5.36 74.64% 0.147
1893 Löwen-Brauerei Hamburg Pilsener 1056.1 1015.9 13.85 5.21 71.63% 0.405
1890 Löwenbrauerei Munich Pilsener 1057.5 1017.3 14.19 5.21 69.91% 0.405
Average 1049.8 1012.6 12.38 4.83 74.78% 0.248
Sources:
Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pages 1102 - 1156
The 1911 Encyclopedia Brittanica
"Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1889, pages 806 - 851
"Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697

For comparison purposes, here are some Pilsners from Pilsen itself:

Bohemian Pilsener 1876 - 1893
Year Brewer Town Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation Lactic acid %
1888 Alt-Pilsener Pilsen Schenkbier 1039.7 1012.1 9.96 3.58 69.52%
1898 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Schankbier 1043.0 1011.5 10.76 4.09 73.26% 0.112
1886 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1043.3 1014.5 10.83 3.73 66.51%
1886 Actien Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1043.7 1012.5 10.92 4.04 71.40%
1876 Actien Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1044.9 1011.1 11.21 4.39 75.28% 0.120
1878 unknown Pilsen Bömisches Bier 1045.0 1012.0 11.22 4.28 73.30%
1876 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1045.0 1013.0 11.23 4.15 71.11% 0.120
1876 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1046.5 1013.0 11.59 4.35 72.04% 0.160
1886 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1047.3 1012.7 11.78 4.49 73.15%
1898 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1047.3 1012.6 11.78 4.50 73.36% 0.103
1886 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1047.8 1015.4 11.89 4.19 67.75%
1890 unknown Pilsen Pilsener 1047.8 1013.0 11.91 4.34 72.83%
1897 Unknown Pilsen Original-Pilsener 1048.0 1014.3 11.95 4.36 70.21% 0.242
1890 Unknown Pilsen Pilsener 1048.1 1013.1 11.97 4.54 72.77% 0.186
1888 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1048.5 1015.0 12.07 4.34 69.07%
1898 Unknown Pilsen Pilsener (sold in Berlin) 1048.5 1014.3 12.07 4.44 70.52%
1870 Actien-Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1048.6 1012.8 12.08 4.64 73.64%
1876 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Lagerbier 1048.6 1012.8 12.09 4.65 73.66% 0.170
1891 Actien Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener (sold in Zürich) 1048.9 1012.0 12.16 4.80 75.46%
1891 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener (sold in Zürich) 1049.3 1014.6 12.26 4.50 70.39%
1876 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Schenkbier 1050.5 1013.8 12.54 4.76 72.67%
1892 Pilsener Export-Brauerei Pilsen Pilsener (sold in Bern) 1052.2 1011.1 12.94 5.35 78.74% 0.120
1893 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener 1053.2 1013.2 13.18 5.20 75.19% 0.320
1890 Bürgerliches Brauhaus Pilsen Pilsener Exportbier 1054.6 1014.5 13.51 5.22 73.53% 0.320
Average 1047.5 1013.1 11.83 4.45 72.31% 0.179
Sources:
Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pages 1102 - 1156
"Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1889, pages 806 - 851
"Bericht über die Entwickelung der chemischen Industrie während des letzten Jahrzehends" by August Wilhelm von Hofmann, 1877, page 382
"Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697

And now modern German Pilsners:

German Pils in 2014
Brewer Town Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation bitterness
Brauereigasthof Winkler Berching  Premium Pils 1046.5 1011.2 11.6 4.60 76.04%
Brauerei Windsheimer Gutenstetten Pils 1047.8 1011.6 11.9 4.70 75.73%
Privatbrauerei Gessner Sonneberg Pilsner 1047.4 1010.5 11.8 4.80 77.83%
Holsten Hamburg Altona Pilsener 1044.9 1008 11.2 4.80 82.17%
Einbecker Brauhaus Einbeck Premium Pilsener 1044.9 1008 11.2 4.80 82.17%
Bürgerbräu Hersbruck Hersbruck Edel-Pils 1046.1 1009.2 11.5 4.80 80.05%
Zum Löwenbräu Flair Hotel Adelsdorf Edel-Pilsner 1049.1 1011.4 12.2 4.90 76.76%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Kulmbacher Edelherb  1045.3 1007.7 11.3 4.90 82.99%
Arnsteiner Brauerei Seinsheim Pils 1045.7 1008.1 11.4 4.90 82.27%
Brauhaus Leikeim Altenkunstadt Premium 1045.7 1008.1 11.4 4.90 82.27%
Einbecker Brauhaus Einbeck Brauherren Pils 1045.7 1008.1 11.4 4.90 82.27%
Privatbrauerei Gessner Sonneberg Premium Pils 1047.8 1010.2 11.9 4.90 78.76%
Braugasthof Grosch Rödental Grosch Prinz Albert Pils 1046.1 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
Paulaner Munich Premium Pils 1046.1 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
Brauerei Gasthof Wiethaler Lauf an der Pegnitz Neunhofer Pils 4.90
Brauerei Gasthof Wiethaler Lauf an der Pegnitz Neunhofer Edelpils 4.90
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach EKU Pils 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Brauerei Kanone Löhr Schnaittach Pils 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Brauerei Hermann Sigwart Weißenburg Premium Pils 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Braugold Erfurt Riebeck Premium Pilsener 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Mönchshof Original Pils 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Schübel Bräu Stadtsteinach Pils 1047.0 1009.3 11.7 4.90 80.19%
Brauerei Hofmann Pahres Hopfengold-Pilsener 1047.4 1009.7 11.8 4.90 79.52%
Ammerndorfer Bier Dorn Bräu Ammerndorf Pils 1047.4 1009.7 11.8 4.90 79.52%
Püls-bräu Stadtsteinach Weismainer Premium 1050.3 1011.9 12.5 5.00 76.35%
Göller Zeil am Main Original 1047.4 1009 11.8 5.00 81.00%
Göller Zeil am Main Pilsner 1047.4 1009 11.8 5.00 81.00%
Püls-bräu Stadtsteinach Weismainer Krone Pils 1047.4 1009 11.8 5.00 81.00%
Gasthof Gundel Kammerstein Pils 1047.4 1009 11.8 5.00 81.00%
Brauerei Hofmann Pahres Pils 0.33 1047.8 1009.4 11.9 5.00 80.33%
Wolf Zeil am Main Land Pils 1046.1 1007.8 11.5 5.00 83.19%
Privatbrauerei Kesselring Marktsteft Premium Pils 1048.2 1009.8 12.0 5.00 79.67%
Kitzmann-Bräu Erlangen Edelpils 1048.2 1009.8 12.0 5.00 79.67%
Strauß Karl Brauerei Treuchtlingen Wettelsheimer Wet 1051.6 1013.1 12.8 5.00 74.61%
Strauß Karl Brauerei Treuchtlingen Wettelsheimer Pils 1051.6 1013.1 12.8 5.00 74.61%
Holsten Hamburg Altona Extra Herb 1044.9 1006.5 11.2 5.00 85.51%
Pyraser Landbrauerei Thalmässing Gutsherrn Pils 1047.4 1008.3 11.8 5.10 82.58%
Weihenstephan Freising Pilsner 1047.4 1008.3 11.8 5.10 82.58%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Pilsner 1047.4 1008.3 11.8 5.10 82.58%
Distelhäuser  Tauberbischofsheim Pils 1050.3 1011.1 12.5 5.10 77.94% 22
Püls-bräu Stadtsteinach Weismainer HopfenGold 1047.8 1008.6 11.9 5.11 82.01%
Göller Zeil am Main Premium Pilsner 1049.9 1010 12.4 5.20 79.96% 33 - 34
Braugold Erfurt Erfurter Angerbräu Premium Pils 1050.3 1010.4 12.5 5.20 79.33%
Forschungsbrauerei Munich Pilsissimus Exportbier 1052.4 1009.5 13.0 5.60 81.88%
Average 1047.5 1009.4 11.8 5.0 80.31% 22.0
Sources:
Brewery websites.

What I find most remarkable is how similar all the sets are to one another. The average gravity of the 19th-century Czech and modern German examples is identical. Though the average gravity of the 19th-century German samples is half a degree Plato higher. Unsurprisingly, there's one big difference: the level of attenuation. It's 80% in the modern examples and below 75% in the older examples. For the 19h century, anything over 70% attenuation is quite high. Whereas in most modern German Lagers it's over 80%.

The modern Pilsners show less variation than the older ones. The gravity range is 9.96 to 13.51º Plato (3.55º difference) for 19th-century Czech Pilsners, 10.91 to 14.19º Plato (4.28º difference) in old German ones, 11.20 to 13.00º Plato (2.8º difference) in modern German ones. 23 of the 42 modern examples are 0.2º Plato either side of the average of 11.8º Plato (11.4º to 12º Plato) and 31 are 0.4º Plato either side of the average. That's 55% and 74%, respectively.

It's a shame that I've so few EBU bitterness values. They aren't enough to do anything sensible with.

Time for one final table. Of a modern phenomenon: Leicht Pils.

German Leicht Pils in 2014
Brewer Town Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation bitterness
Zum Löwenbräu Flair Hotel Adelsdorf Leichtes 1030.8 1009.2 7.8 2.80 70.15%
Distelhäuser  Tauberbischofsheim Leichtes 1030.8 1008.4 7.8 2.90 72.75% 18
Ammerndorfer Bier Dorn Bräu Ammerndorf Leicht 1030.8 1008.4 7.8 2.90 72.75%
Püls-bräu Stadtsteinach Weismainer Feinherb 1031.2 1008.8 7.9 2.90 71.82%
Gasthof Gundel Kammerstein Nimm's leicht 1031.2 1008.8 7.9 2.90 71.82%
Pyraser Landbrauerei Thalmässing Das leichte Pyraser 1038.2 1009.7 9.6 3.70 74.61%
Average

1032.2 1008.9 8.1 3.0 72.32% 18.0
Sources:
Brewery websites.

They're all very similar to each other except the Pyraser, which looks like an Ordinary Bitter. The others all fall into the old Schankbier category, being under 8º Plato. While the Pyraser is slap in the middle of the old "forbidden zone" of 8º - 11º Plato. It's remarkable how few beers are brewed even now at the old forbidden gravities. I guess old habits die hard.

Hefeweizen next, I think.





* Brauwelt Brevier 2003 and Deutscher Brauer-Bund, Bonn.
** Deutscher Brauer-Bund, Bonn.