Tampilkan postingan dengan label German beer. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label German beer. Tampilkan semua postingan

Jumat, 07 November 2014

The free list of the Pilsener beer

Here's another result of my random sweep of the newspaper archives for "pilsener".

This is a really weird one. Especially when you learn a little more about Sir William Harcourt.

"Sir William Harcourt stands a good chance of being put on the free list of the Pilsener beer manufacturers for the rest his days. In the course of the debate on the second reading of the Pure Beer Bill, Sir William extolled the good qualities of Pilsener, mentioning that it was the only beer he-himself consumed! There has been quite, a boom in Pilsener since Sir William made this interesting revelation, and as there are innocent people who are under the impression that Pilsener-beer, being made from rice, is a harmless decoction like Apollinaris or lager beer, it is time..the point was cleared up. It is quite a delusion to suppose that Pilsener is a temperance drink. Pilsener is much more intoxicating than the bottled beers sold in this country, and hence, perhaps, the favour it has found in the eyes, or rather with the palate, of the Squire of Malwood. At all events, it is well to know that the beer which Sir William has ostentatiously extolled is not the innocent decoction that some people have imagined; and as we have an abundance of potent beers of home-manufacture already on the market, there is really no reason why encouragement should be given to this North-German product."
Aberdeen Journal - Wednesday 03 April 1901, page 4.

We'll get onto Sir William Harcourt in a minute. First let's look at those claims about Pilsener. Claiming it was made from rice is a bit weird. Especially as it's also being called North German. While there had been beer brewed with rice in North German in the 19th century, by 1909 the Reinheitsgebot had been extended to all Germany. Brewing with rice was illegal.

The claim that Pilsener was much more alcoholic than British bottled beers is just total bollocks. I recently published a table of fifteen German Pilseners brewed between 1878 and 1900. The average gravity was 1049.8 and the average ABV 4.83%. By pre-WW I British standards that's weak. The strongest sample was 5.21% ABV - lower than the average strength of British beer. To claim that it was much stronger is just completely wrong.

And finally Sir William Harcourt. He was a Liberal politician who served under Gladstone. In 1893 and 1895, while serving as Chancellor of the Exchequer, he introduced a Local Veto Bill. This was what temperance campaigners dreamed of. It would have allowed parishes to vote for the elimination or limitation of licensed premises. How weird that such a man would sing the praises of a type of beer.

Kamis, 30 Oktober 2014

German brewing in 1966 - malting

Now we've got barley out of the way we can turn to the business of turning it into malt.

First some general stuff:

"Many German breweries, particularly in the south, have their own maltings. The increasing demand is being filled by existing commercial maltings.

The five-day week has forced maltings to adjust to a 7-day germination period, and malting methods must be adjusted accordingly. A germination period of 8-9 days was normal some years ago and for dark malts it was even longer. However, as a day was usually lost after casting the steep before the barley began to grow, we really only had a 7-day germination period in an 8-day malting period."
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 72, Issue 1, January-February 1966, page 15.

Narziss keeps moaning about the trouble the introduction of a 5-day, 40-hour working week. As if it were the work of the devil.

I think it's much rarer now for German breweries to have their own maltings, as in the UK. Come to think of it, about the only place I can think of where this does still happen is the Czech Republic. In the 19th century all the famous Burton and Edinburgh brewers had their own maltings. This was understandable as they specialised in Pale Ales, beers where the quality and colour off the malt was paramount. But gradually they moved over to buying in all their malt during the first half of the 20th century. Presumably because it was of reliable quality.

Now steeping:

"Steeping.—As a result of a fundamental change in the concept of steeping, we have achieved a position whereby a well-modified, completely satisfactory malt can be produced in a 7-day germination period. A shorter steeping period is now possible by making use of methods such as warm-water steeping (14-18° C), frequent dry steeping, periodic removal of CO2 by suction, sprinkling of the steeped barley, and re-circulation of the barley two or three times during the steeping period. By means of these methods less damage is done to the barley and the steep is cast with the barley visibly germinating and even at times showing two or three rootlets. This results in increased utilization of the germination plant. With warm-water steeping, it is essential to main tain an even temperature throughout; the steep room has to be controlled accordingly and, when using higher temperatures, a punctual CO2 removal must be carried out, preferably controlled by a clock. If cold air is sucked into the steep this will result in delayed water absorption and uneven germination."
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 72, Issue 1, January-February 1966, page 15.

Steeping was a huge deal in Britain when malt was taxed. Because it was taxed on the volume when it came out of steeping. As this could be manipulated through the moisture content, there were strict rules about what, and for how long, maltsters were allowed to do.

I haven't the foggiest idea of steeping temperatures, so I looked it up in a modern British brewing manual. Here's what it says:

"The steep-water temperature should be controlled. At elevated temperatures water uptake is faster but microbial growth is accelerated and the grain may be damaged or killed. The best temperature for steeping immature (partly dormant) grain is low (about 12 ºC, 53.6 ºF). For less dormant grain a value of 16-18 ºC (60.8-64.4 ºF) is often used."
"Brewing: science and practice", by Dennis E. Briggs, Chris A. Boulton, Peter A. Brookes and Roger Stevens, 2004, pages 14 - 15.

That seems pretty much in line with what Narziss derscribes. Briggs also describes CO2 extraction:

"Air rests are used between steeps. After a steep has been drained air, which should be humid and at the correct temperature, is sucked down through the grain. Such downward ventilation, or `CO2 extraction', assists drainage, provides the grain with oxygen, removes the growth-inhibiting carbon dioxide and removes some of the heat generated by the metabolizing grain. In consequence, and in contrast to traditional practice, barley leaving the steep has usually started to germinate."
"Brewing: science and practice", by Dennis E. Briggs, Chris A. Boulton, Peter A. Brookes and Roger Stevens, 2004, page 15.

Now something about moisture content:

"A number of investigations have shown that a sufficient moisture content of the barley is absolutely essential. It is possible to reduce germination time even when a very high degree of steeping is used, provided steps are taken to avoid subsequent drying out of the barley. Formerly moisture contents of 45-46% were used only when steeping dark malts but now this level of moisture is not unusual even for pale malts. By improving the degree of steeping on the 1964 season barleys (which were of low extract and enzymically poor) results shown in Table I could be obtained."
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 72, Issue 1, January-February 1966, pages 15 - 16.

Why would you have a greater moisture content in dark malts?

Here's that table.

TABLE I
Effect of Steeping on Analysis

Degree of steeping

43% 46%
Moisture content 4.60% 4.80%
Extract (dry) 80.10% 80.80%
Coarse/fine grind difference 2.70% 1.70%
Protein content 11.90% 11.70%
Degree of protein modification 33.80% 35.40%
Colour (E.B.C.) 2.2 2
Conversion (min.) 10.15 10.15
Malting loss 9.50% 12.70%
Germination loss 4.70% 4.10%
Steeping time (hr.) 62 74

Want to know how British malt compares? Briggs reckons the dry extract of pale malt is 77-83%*. The German malt is smack in the middle of that range. For darker British malts the extract was lower, 75-78%**. Briggs states that malting losses account to 6.5% - 14%, but breaks them down differently to Narziss:

"Malting losses can be defined in several ways. If they are defined in terms of the losses in dry weight, which occur when cleaned barley entering the steep is recovered as kilned malt and has been de-culmed (dressed), then the losses sustained in making conventional malts are usually in the ranges: steeping losses, 0.5 - 1.5%; germination losses, 3.5 - 7.5%; rootlets, 2.5 - 5.0%. These divisions are artificial, since some respiration and growth occur in the steeping phase and in the initial stages of kilning."
"Brewing: science and practice", by Dennis E. Briggs, Chris A. Boulton, Peter A. Brookes and Roger Stevens, 2004, page 17.

That leaves the German losses right at the top end, or a little beyond, of the British range.

More about malting and malts next time.

Selasa, 28 Oktober 2014

German Helles in 2014

Right, time to start making some use of all this information I've been wasting my evenings collecting. My only accompaniment the quiet sobbing of my negected wife and kids.

I suppose I should make this clear at the start. What I mean by Helles, isn't any old sort of pale Lager that isn't Pils. I should really use the full name of the style I'm discussing today: Helles Lagerbier or Lagerbier Hell. I'm using the shorthand of Helles because I can't be arsed to go and change the style on hundreds of table entries.

It's a very popular style amongst the breweries I'm looking at. No surprise, as most are from Bavaria. Where Helles is the most popular style. There were only more examples in my set of two styles: Pils and Hefeweizen. Those are, unsurprisingly, the three most popular styles in Germany.

Oh, I suppose I should tell you how I split apart Helles Lagerbier and Helles Export. Some of the latter were identified by the brewery as Export. With others it wasn't clear what, if anything, the brewery considered their style. So I used something mentioned in the Deutscher Brauer-Bund website style descriptions: that Export has a minimum gravity of 12 Platoº.

It seems like a good enough dividing line, so that's what I've used. Though it is pretty arbitrary. I'll classify a beer of 11.9º Helles and one of 12º Export. You have to draw the line somewhere, but I'm not claiming my classification is perfect.

I suppose I should show you the beers now:

German Helles in 2014
Brewer Town Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation bitterness (EBU)
Paulaner Munich Münchner Hell Leicht 1030.4 1005.8 7.7 3.20 80.93%
Göller Zeil am Main Hausbrauerbier 1044.9 1011.7 11.2 4.30 73.92%
Püls-bräu Stadtsteinach Weismainer Urhell 1046.1 1010.8 11.5 4.60 76.69%
Bürgerbräu Hersbruck Hersbruck Lagerbier 1045.3 1009.9 11.3 4.60 78.13%
Ammerndorfer Bier Dorn Bräu Ammerndorf Hell 1045.7 1010.3 11.4 4.60 77.46%
Privatbrauerei Kesselring Marktsteft Hell 1046.1 1010.0 11.5 4.70 78.31%
Zum Löwenbräu Flair Hotel Adelsdorf Vollbier Hell 1047.4 1011.2 11.8 4.70 76.36%
Brauerei Windsheimer Gutenstetten Vollbier 1047.8 1011.6 11.9 4.70 75.73%
Forschungsbrauerei Munich Münchener Vollbier Hell 1044.0 1007.9 11 4.70 82.05%
Arnsteiner Brauerei Seinsheim Ernte Hell 1044.4 1007.6 11.1 4.80 82.90%
Brauerei Gasthof Wiethaler Lauf an der Pegnitz Lagerbier Hell 4.80
Brauereigasthof Winkler Berching  Lagerbier Hell 1045.7 1008.8 11.4 4.80 80.74%
Klosterbrauerei Andechs Andechs Vollbier Hell 1046.1 1009.2 11.5 4.80 80.05%
Braugold Erfurt Braugold Hell 1046.1 1009.2 11.5 4.80 80.05%
Holsten Hamburg Altona Edel 1044.9 1007.3 11.2 4.90 83.73% 23
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Kulmbacher Feinmild 1045.3 1007.7 11.3 4.90 82.99%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Mönchshof Bayerisch Hell 1045.3 1007.7 11.3 4.90 82.99%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach EKU Hell 1045.7 1008.1 11.4 4.90 82.27%
Brauhaus Leikeim Altenkunstadt Hell 1045.7 1008.1 11.4 4.90 82.27%
Paulaner Munich Münchner Hell 1046.1 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Kulmbacher Lager Hell  1046.1 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Mönchshof Lager 1046.1 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
Gasthof Gundel Kammerstein Urhell 1046.1 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
Brauerei Weller  Erlangen 3x11 1044.0 1006.5 11 4.90 85.35%
Kitzmann-Bräu Erlangen Helles 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Kitzmann-Bräu Erlangen Kitzzz 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Brauerei Hermann Sigwart Weißenburg Hell 1046.5 1008.9 11.6 4.90 80.87%
Schübel Bräu Stadtsteinach a fränkisch 1047.4 1009.7 11.8 4.90 79.52%
Strauß Karl Brauerei Treuchtlingen Wettelsheimer Helles 1047.4 1009.7 11.8 4.90 79.52%
Göller Zeil am Main Hell 1047.4 1009.0 11.8 5.00 81.00%
Hacker-Pschorr Munich Münchner Hell 1046.1 1007.8 11.5 5.00 83.19%
Schwechater Vienna Schwechater Bier 1046.1 1007.8 11.5 5.00 83.19%
Kulmbacher Brauerei Kulmbach Original 1046.5 1007.5 11.6 5.10 83.99% 21
Weihenstephan Freising Original 1046.5 1007.4 11.6 5.10 84.10% 21
Spaten Munich Münchner Hell 1047.0 1007.1 11.7 5.20 84.88%
Löwenbräu  Munich Original 1047.4 1007.5 11.8 5.20 84.17%
Average 1045.6 1008.7 11.4 4.8 81.01% 21.7
Sources:
Brewery websites.

As you can see, there's not a huge amount of variation. And the average does look like the spec of a tyopical Helles: 11.5º Plato, 4.8% ABV, 80% apparent attenuation. The biggest varition is in the degree of attenuation, which ranges from 74% to 85%.

Though by limiting the gravity to 11.9 º Plato, I did, of course, dictate that the beers would be generally similar.

Pils next time.